My Way: day two begins a bit haunted

The White Cross of Roncesvalles guarding pilgrims against the forces of evil.

Glorious day of walking starting in a mystical mist through a birch forest. Found a sign at the end explaining it had been the favoured place for Convents...until the Inquisition burnt nine witches at the stake. But people in the area still find it spooky.








As the Sun rose the landscape turned clear and sharp against a backdrop of blue sky.











My albergue in Zubiri. That top balcony had great views back to the bridge so I could watch for the approach of fellow pilgrims

The joy of having all my filthy clothes washed and tumble dried.

The view... All for 16 Euros



Posted from Lee Shipley's phone

On my Way: over the Pyrenees

First: it takes a good set of boots matched with silk socks, wool socks and a set of gators stops the water and odd debris from creating problem feet.

Second, concentrating on what you are doing. One day one, it was slippery and steep both up and down. The weather can be fierce and changeable oner the Napoleon way.

Just when you think it must be the top you see tiny figure further up the zigzag climb though the passes.

Bikes turned into hinderances with riders forced to dismount on the steep inclines. Coming Dow was even worse, making them find the safety of the tarred roads.

But spectacular views back into France

Exhausted at the top of the climb

Crossing into Spain.

First use of my new Swiss Army knife. We used the saw to fashion a very serviceable staff. With a pack negotiation of the steep incline was difficult.

We arrive at the superb Colegiata Albergue at Roncesvalles.

...and clean off our muddy, muddy boots

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On my Way: at the foot of the Pyrenees

The long road ahead

The first credentia stamps. On left the issuing office at the start of the trail, on right the first albergues de peregrinos

I have to what?

Glad I reserved.

Last shop to buy up more of the stuff you will have to throw away to complete the Camino

Tourist photo of the start of the Way

My pack is now complete with its Camino pilgrim's symbol a shell

Not pilgrims. Hundreds of people flow through the streets to gawk at the departing walkers. Even one of those white tourist trains putters up and down the street outside my window and the Chambres pour Pèlerins across the road where volunteers give advice to those sallying forth. The fact remains that the weather up the hill can be fickle and dangerous.

And in a memorable end to the evening meal, our host and hostess do a Basque country dance

All the walks from across Europe led to this location because it was the most likely route to be both snow free and would allow carts to cross. It was still the most feared stage.

With light rain and a load of slightly carsick would be pilgrims from the bus trip from Bayonne, I climb the cobbled streets of Saint Jean Peid de Port to my first night alberge on the Camino Francés. It is only about 800km and six weeks to Santiago de Compostela. And another week after that to watch the Sun sink into the Atlantic Ocean at Finistère on the far western most tip of Spain.
Will I make it ?  26,000 or 12% of all the pilgrims to Santiago who did the way two years ago started from here at the point where the ancient trails from across Europe converged. Pretty good bet I will finish if my legs can take it.

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Bordeaux: the art of the street

Like in so many European cities space is scarce.  Generations have had to adapt rather than trashing and rebuilding...especially when a building is particularly beautiful or too difficult to smash. So making a mark here is usually ingenious and thoughtful.
It has been two years since we were last here and the streetscape has changed ever so subtly to expess new needs.
The most noticeable has been the street art that has evolved from the angry "tagging" that ravaged the innercity stone on our previous trips.  The city fathers found that the best way of discouraging it was to have flying squads of removal experts taking them down the next morning.  However they left what they judged to be really good.  Now those artists who have persisted are doing bigger works in collectives. The Chess HQ featured in a previous blog is a good example.
This is not just Bordeaux, the movement is noticeable everywhere according to studies that have been done.
Anyway, my pics of some of the interesting features in the cultural quarter of the city:

A local artists' collective makes an impressive mark.  The graffiti can boys move inside and upmarket.

Graphic artists abound in this area and a popular theme of door art and stickers remains the reaction to the Charlie Massacre

Don't panic, it is only an installation done two years ago at one of the city's rather drab parking buildings.

Even this back street fish shop is dressed up

A closed sculpture studio had this sign

A mechanic's garage, well beyond its use-by date, armoured against vandals

A boutique book shop has a little joke combining the names of famous people and French placenames...book and individual postcards available inside.

Inside what must be one of best churches converted to a cinema in the world, Utopia, the irreverence continues

Early walk in the city of Bordeaux

Like many, I like to get out taking photos just as a town is waking.  Not only do you see the dregs of the night before but the reordering and renewal for a new day in the rays of dawn.  Bordeaux lends itself well to such a walk. Here are a few of my photos from the the week:

Trashers don't change: it is the same muck as you find in any city: liquor bottles and cans, fast food remains and crushed cigarette packs.  In Bordeaux with it sweeping public vistas, even the smallest scrap is noticeable.  No fault of the sanitation squad...despite the very early hour, the bins were already emptied. 

Walk the dog; pick up some bread

The early view from our apartment with a choice of fruit and a good coffee

Runner and cyclist

J'dor

Italian liner parked in the river...the passengers are just starting to dribble out to hit the shops and take their photos

Question: why do people crush cigarette packs before throwing them away?

Chessboard from Bordeaux

Doesn't look like much does it? Just another shop-front on a quiet backstreet of Bordeaux. But if you look a little closer you can see a line up of championship awards along the window sills and darkly inside rows of players hovered over chess boards. It is the region's chess headquarters devoted to the promotion of the game. France is extremely well organised when it comes to competitive chess with over 600 officially to tournaments withe more more than 2000 individuals participating last year.
Such is the serendipity of the quarter in which we are staying.



Posted from Lee Shipley's phone